The crack being the noise when I inserted the power cable into my second Connect:AMP (The AMP previously known as Sonos ZonePlayer 120) without switching the voltage switch from 110 to 230.
Luckily it turned out that I wasn't the first brain child to attempt such a power up. Rather then post my Connect:AMP back to the USA, I decided to void my warranty by replacing the fuse myself.
I ordered a minimum quantity of 10 replacement fuses from RS (http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/products/3772203/) and then set to work disassembling the Connect:AMP by roughly following the useful Flickr stream by at0mac.
1. Firstly I peeled back the sticker on the back and removed the screws below. There are also two screws between the white and red RCA plugs which I just pulled out through the actual sticker.
2. From underneath, using a small flat head screw driver I peeled back a corner of the rubber feet and then removed the screws in each corner.
This revealed the WiFi antenna on the bottom on a backing plate.
3. I unscrewed the backing plate and carefully put the wires through the white cable holder so I could folder over the backing plate to reveal the bottom of the board.
3. Lightly reassemble the bottom - we'll need it later and remove the top cover. The top cover apparently just "pulls out", but I had quite a bit of trouble with this and ended up causing a little bit of damage to the top cover trying to leverage out the top with a flathead screw driver. I had much better success by threading a wire (or string would do) through two of the holes in a corner and pulling up with a pair of pliers.
4. This revealed the top backing plate. Remove all of the screw (including the hidden one under the warranty/shock sticker). Remove the plate.
5. I missed a photo here, but at0mac has it in his Flickr steam. At this stage you need to remove the WiFi board shown at the top of the picture.
6. This allows access to the fuse soldered onto the board (the orange-brown circle seen below).
7. This is where you might need help from a friend with soldering experience. Find matching fuse pins on the bottom of the board. Heat solder on the fuse pins and remove the fuse and install the replacement fuse.
8. Reassemble Connect:AMP.
9. Very important - Switch the voltage on the amp to 230V before connecting to power :)
If everything is done correctly, the Sonos white LED will hopefully flash while booting and you can connect with the Sonos Desktop software.
This weekend I hope to get in the roof to run some speaker cables and mount my Definitive Audio AW6500 speakers on the veranda in the the back yard. Then I'll connect them to my newly repaired Connect:AMP :)
Here's all of my equipment to install in the upcoming weeks-
2x Connect:AMP
2x Definitive AW6500 Outdoor speakers
Pair of Polk Audio RC60i ceiling speakers (Bathroom + Kitchen)
Pair of Polk Audio RC80i ceiling speakers (Bedroom)
100M of 12AWG Speakerwire (Monoprice)
Where are you installing the cat?
ReplyDeleteIn the ceiling to hunt down the possums...
ReplyDeleteGood job!
ReplyDeletethis week, mine went to sonos (whit the same problem, I guess)if the warranty or mi network-supply do not cover the damage, this is a great help ;-)
Tanks
Did the warranty cover it? Debating between trying to return it for warranty service or attempting the fix described here,..
DeleteThank you so much,
ReplyDeleteWorked like a charm and gave me a reason to learn soldering.
Mat.
Glad that I was able to help out. Original credit to the guys who did it first, but I'm glad you found a complete set of instructions useful. Soldering is a useful skill - I've always had a gas one that's on the way out and am trying to work out a way to get a quality cheap unit into Australia :)
DeleteHi Daniel -
ReplyDeleteYour repair description ROCKS! I was beyond frustrated to be stupid enough not to change the switch to 230V before plugging it in.
Luckily, I found your blog and you did an awesome job of describing all the steps also with pictures to exchange the fuse that a total electronics repair beginner like me was able to succeed in this challenge.
You not only saved me a lot of money for repair or a new one but also got me the kick of repairing it on my own!
Thanks so much again for posting this.
Hope your having as much fun with your set up as I do with mine now.
Regards from Zurich, Switzerland :)
Fabian
Thanks Fabian! I understand the frustration of not flipping the switch all too well. It's a pretty good feeling when you've been able to repair something on your own :)
DeleteMate you are an absolute legend, had a mate round today to solder the new fuse on and we are good to go.
ReplyDelete4 days ago I was almost in tears lol, did one voltage but forgot the next one, BOOM !
This was easy to follow, simple to do and I would recommend anyone do it before contacting SONOS. Your warranty is void anyway from throwing 240v through it.
If you have done the same as the rest of us, dont panic !! Read this through and anyone can complete it.
Cheers Daniel and the original people !! Lifesavers....
Nick
Daniel,
ReplyDeleteI just got "cracking" on my sonos system here in Melbourne (while still set to 110V)... Do you still have any of the fuses left, or should I place my order with Hong Kong...
Arlo
haha - yeah it's a great noise isn't it. You've actually caught me in HK airport on the way home at the moment.
DeleteI'm pretty sure I still have the spare fuses - let me know your address and I'll post a couple in an envelope to you.
Hi Daniel,
ReplyDeleteI'm on the same boat, bought in the US and plugged in here in Melbourne without looking at the switch. Was your "cracking" accompanied by a beautiful smell of burning components? I just want to make sure I have the exact same issue before I open it up and void the warranty.
Thanks
Srini
Hey Srini, Yes there was a bit of smell. I'd be pretty sure the fuse is blown. I've just ordered another three Connect:AMPs for my new place - this is a timely reminder :)
ReplyDeleteHello,
ReplyDeletemy daughter shifted the switch from 230 to 115. Now I have replaced the fuse and also the capacitor close to the fuse. But when I attach the power, the fuse blown again. The first time with a high "bang". Any proposals?
Jon
I can only suggest checking the fuse and trying to replace it again. I'm actually not a trained electrician and really just put together a couple of guides. If the fuse keeps blowing I'd recommend maybe trying a TV repair place as they'd probably have the skillsets to do a repair.
DeleteHi Guys, anyone get any further regarding the issue where the fuse keeps blowing after it's replaced. I had to replace the fuse and the cap near by, powers on for a second before the fuse blows again. Any help much appreciated
ReplyDeleteCheers
Davr
Hi , Any update with this repair? I'm having similar issue where the amps keeps blowing the fuse and there is nothing else that shows visible signs of damage
Deleteany update? i'm in the same situation
Deletehi guys, I have the same problem - and yes I feel deeply stupid. But I have now put my dusty electronic repair coat on again and I am now one step ahead. Thanks to your analysis and pictures that is all super helpful and valid.
ReplyDeleteAside the blown 5AT fuse I have identified another component in the power supply unit - a varistor TVR14241 (labelled as D16034, it is actually a yellow disc with a black shrink "coat") - it is built to catch power surges to protect the rest of the circuit. That actually explains the zinc smell from its metal oxid - it reminded me a lot to the model trains back in the days.
In my case the varistor "fused" and created a permanent short-cut - but it could well be that in other cases it could have exploded and not show the same "aftermath" condition. As it is only a protective element I would not need it in an ideal scenario but I want my device to continue to be protected - against real power surges and ... human error.
I have now ordered a similar component (720-9958 together with the fuse 377-2203 from RS-Components) and soon I know if it the theory works out. Btw I have hand drawn a partial schematics of the power supply part/circuit .. in case somebody is interested. Stay tuned!
Hi Mike. Did your theory work?
DeleteI'm not able to find the varistor. Anyone know where it is located?
DeleteI just made this repair in my home shop. I replaced both the fuse and the varistor TVR14241 that I purchased from Mouser Electronics. The Zone Amp is now playing my jazz station in the background. This repair is most difficult because of the dis-assembly of the chassis to get to the bottom of the board. I use a plastic egg holder to keep track of all of the screws. You can keep from messing up the bezel on the back around the speaker terminals by knowing that there are two phillips head screws between the 3 RCA connectors on the back of the unit.
ReplyDeleteThis is not a repair for the inexperienced - but facing a $500.00 replacement, I had nothing to do but dive in. Cost of repair was about $5.00. Good luck on your repair.
Hello, can you tell me the part number you used? When I do a search on Mouser for TVR14241, I do not get any results. If you have the part number for the fuse to, that would be great! Did you also replace the surface mount diode? I do not know if I should get a bi-directional or a unidirectional. Thanks for any info you can provide! NOYFB2003 AT Yahoo. DOT com
DeleteSteve
Hey guys,
ReplyDeleteThanks for the help guys. It's great to know I'm not the only muppet to have done this. I have the spare fuses and varistors, but I can't for the life of me get the top of the zp120. How did you guys do it? I've tried threading string through the holes and pulling REALLY hard, but it's not budging.
Any tips?
Heya, you can see that theres those clips on the photo showing the corner with the wire. You might be able push something thin in the side to push those clips in which might make it easier. I remember it being hard, and using pliers would put more pressure than you'd think. Mabye try to prop it up, explore it with a butter knife or something thinner to try and get it up. Good luck.
ReplyDeleteThanks for all your help. I have the unit up and running today. Someone on the Sonos forum suggested a thin putty knife like from this ifixit forum which looks like the perfect tool to get the top off.
ReplyDeletehttps://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mac+min...placement/1058
I'd already man-handled it off, leaving divots and scratches, but I don't care because it works again!!!
Some of the worst soldering known to man and it still works.
Thanks again and good luck to anyone else trying this.
Daniel (not OP)
Hello,
ReplyDeletedid you ever try to take a output before the amp? So you can connect the Sonos:Amp to another amplifier?
No - I guess its a good idea though. Theoretically it would be in sync I'd suppose assuming the external added no delay, but then why not just get a connect and use an amp?
DeleteCan confirm this fixed my Sonos after plugging it in to 240v on 110v switch setting.
ReplyDeletehttps://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/non-resettable-wire-ended-fuses/3772203/
Soldiered above part as per instructions above.
Good luck!
Stoked!