Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Building Arcade Hyperspin/Mame cabinet - Part 4

With the help of some friends I got the cabinet built from painted pieces in a solid day. It mostly comes together with IKEA type fasteners and you'd want at least another person to help build it.

I haven't gone into too much detail on the build process as Troy from ArcadeWorx provides very detailed build instructions with the kit.

Half built, adding speakers.
Completed product!
I'm very happy with the result and the colour looks great.

I was hoping to print the artwork at a professional printing shop on a nice material, however I was running out of time so I just measured the perspex panels and printed the artwork to size on multiple pages on my home laser jet. I then cut out the artwork and glued it to the back of the perspex with a UHU waterbased gluestick. My artwork source for the move lists was from Donovan Myers blog.

Street Fighter artwork for the control panel
I got a great hand from a friend with the console wiring. If I had been left to my own devices it would be a birds nest rather than the "milspec" result below.

Very neat wiring.
I'm using two Akishop PS360+ PCBs for the controllers which I purchased from In2Amusements. The autodetect their USB host on the other end when powered up and are compatible with PC, PS3 and XBOX 360.

At the moment I have the controllers configured as XBOX controllers for Windows, as this allows the joysticks to be compatible with Street Fighter 4 Arcade Edition (PC) which doesn't detect the joysticks when they appear to Windows as the "hat" pad. This has also lead to issues with Hyperspin as the Hyperspin 1.3x releases seem to have a compatibility problem issues with XBOX 360 controllers.

At the moment I am working around these issues by disabling the Joysticks in Hyperspin and using Xpadder software (~$10) to make the Joysticks send actions as keyboard key presses. For some reason Xpadder would hang as not responding when I first ran it so I set the executable as "Run as Administrator" and XP Compatability mode and it started working properly.


Every thing was setup for my New Years Eve party (~30 guests) and everyone had a great time reliving some of the classics from their youth. Later in the night I was even asked to attach my two USB joysticks for some 4 player games.
In use - 4 player with 2 USB Sticks connected.

I've still got a lot of work to do with Hyperspin and setting up all the emulators. Currently I'm still in a bit of semi-manual process with the keyboard required for certain features, so I think that the next couple of months will be spent on software configuration and possibly some rewiring of extra buttons and adding new features.

12 comments:

  1. Thanks for sharing, I have spent the last month researching and finalizing my 2 player viewlix clone from arcadeworx and stumbled across this blog. You answered a lot of questions for me ;)

    I was going to go the IPAC2 pcb but would also like to use the 360, not sure how I can switch between the two easily (kvm?).

    Any other tips or anything you would do differently on reflection?

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    1. Hi, Thanks for commenting :)

      I bought one of the following USB hubs on eBay with independent power buttons so I can turn on/off inputs - http://www.mbeat.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=89

      I'd probably now (and may still) change to the IPAC controllers from the PS360+ - I have a couple of issues with them.

      When I turn on the PC they detect as XBOX 360 controllers. I have to turn the on/off (once the computer has booted in Windows) via the USB hub to have them detect as standalone controllers. In 360 mode the home button doesn't work.

      The Joysticks direction detect in Windows as directions on the hat rather than "Joy Up" etc. I'm not sure if the IPAC is different but it means that I have to use XPadder (joystick to keys) for Super Street Fighter IV Arcade for Windows as I can't bind "hat controls" in the game.

      I bought them incase one day I'd plug in my PS3 or XBOX360 but to be honest I can't see this happening.

      I'm also thinking about setting up Led Blinky and replacing some of the buttons with LED buttons. I'd like to have the buttons light up when you load a game in MAME so I can tell which buttons are actually active in the game.

      Make sure to do the control panel right the first time - also any artworks etc. It will be a bit of a pain to take off and redo them.

      Good luck with the cab :)

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    2. You might want to check this out: http://www.ultimarc.com/xbox360.html

      Sounds like IPAC is the way to go from your feedback, my cab will be mame / emulators first and 360 second (for those non PC fighters like MK9 / Marvel vs. Capcom).

      Led Blinky? Will have to read up on that, sounds awesome ;)

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  2. Very nice and well detailed, think I might order one myself. Though I don't really like the sit down ones.

    Cheers Mate

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  3. How's the input lag with that LG screen?

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    1. I've not noticed it. I play a lot of street fighter with some people who play a lot and no ones ever mentioned any lag issues. I choose the screen primarily for 1080p in a 32" size. My only issue with the screen is that it doesn't do properly HDMI CEC, rather LGs own version of it, so you can't turn off the screen with an adapter, to get around this though I just turn off the machine at the wall as the TV does remember its last known state after power cycle so it does wake up on wall power.

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  4. Where did you get the actual artwork for the control panel?

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    1. http://ibsearch.i-forge.net/search?q=md5:0453b07e90e2560cccea34b4097076f3

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  5. Hello Daniel

    Do you still have copies of the translated/localized artwork that Donovan Myers created?

    (his site is down)
    https://web.archive.org/web/20130526205236/http://www.donovanmyers.com/2011/06/super-street-fighter-iv-arcade-edition-english-move-lists/

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    Replies
    1. Hopefully this link works for you: https://1drv.ms/f/s!AtetH6u8-V5-xBHPCqRV6kRWnHBR

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    2. Thanks for providing this really appreciate it!

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